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Rwanda Land of thousand hills

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OVERVIEW

Rwanda is a small landlocked country, it borders on Uganda in the north, on Tanzania in the east, on Burundi in the south and on Congo in the west. Kigali is the capital of Rwanda. The country is dominated by a central plateau made up of steep mountains and deep valleys and has therefore received his subtitle "Land of thousand hills". The average elevation of the plateau is about 1.700 m. The most important topics are:

On the western side of the plateau you will find Rwanda's principal geographic feature; the famous Virunga chain of volcanoes which extends towards Congo and the Ugandan border and which is part of the Albertine Rift. It's in the Virunga that one can find Rwanda's most important tourist attraction: the mountain gorillas!

Rwanda has without doubt more to offer than the mountain gorillas. Nyungwe National Park, is a Albertine Rift montane rain forest and has recently received the status of National Park. The rain forest has a unique habitat and it's only there that we have seen troops of more than 300 colobus monkeys moving around in trees! It has 25 % of the African primates. Nyungwe is simply a primate nirvana!

Rwanda has a rich history and culture. It was long time regarded as a mysterious kingdom with a legendary military force which was carefully bypassed by Arab traders and the great Nile Explorers. Rwanda together with Burundi and Tanzania was part of the German East African colony. After the First World War, it became a Belgian protectorate. It's at the National Museum of Butare, on your way to Nyungwe NP that you can find fascinating displays on the history and culture of one of the great pre-colonial kingdoms of East-Africa.

The 3 towns eastwards; Cyangungu, Kibuye and Gisenyi offer spectacular views on Lake Kivu. Anyone who has seen this part of the country will agree that "Land of thousand hills" is simply an understatement. From Gisenyi, you can cross the border to Congo and visit the city of Goma, devastated by the Nyiaragongo volcano, one of the active Virunga volcanoes on the Congo side which erupted the 17th of January 2002. Rwanda is unfortunately remembered as the Land of the genocide which dominated world headlines in 1994. Nobody can deny this. The general public still remembers these atrocities and only time will heal.

Rwanda is not the first country on the African continent having its part of civil strife. The Adventure Traveller coming to Africa knows this and will disregard the country's image if he can travel safely. Rwanda is surely regaining its reputation as first gorilla destination.

 

 

Butare and the National Museum

 

Rwanda has a rich history and culture. It was long time regarded as a mysterious kingdom with a legendary military force which was carefully bypassed by the Arab traders and the great Nile Explorers. John Hanning Speke was already welcomed to the court of Kabaka (King) Mutesa I of Buganda in 1862 while the first European visited Rwanda only 30 years later.

 

It was in 1892 that the Austrian explorer Dr. Oscar Baumann came to Rwanda for a few days in search of the Nile. The story tells that Dr. Oscar Baumann needed the approval of the Rwanda Mwami (King) to leave the territory again which he refused to ask and that he escaped only after using his gunfire. Two years later in September 1894, an official German delegation conducted by the Army Officer and Count Von Götzen, met the Tutsi Mwami (King) Kigeri IV Rwabugiri. The historical meeting was carefully prepared and arranged through another Kingdom. The Germans found one of the best organized pre-colonial kingdoms of East-Africa. The three ethnic groups (Bahutus, Batutsis and Batwas) lived together, spoke the same language (Kinyarwanda) and had the same culture. Rwanda was once together with Burundi and Tanzania part of the German East African colony and became a Belgian protectorate after the first world war.

 

On your way to Butare you can visit in Nyanza (actually Nyabisindu) the former Mwami's palace (King's palace) and the seat of the feudal monarchy. The palace has been reconstructed to its 19th century state and shows a traditional dome that can be compared with the Kabaka's palace of Buganda (Kampala, Uganda).

The "Intore", once the elite of the traditional Rwanda army, were not only trained as military but also in high jump and dance. They were known for there remarkable technique allowing them to jump over 2m40. The Intore became worldwide famous as dancers in 1958 when the World Expo was held in Brussels. Today Intore dancers are part of the rich Rwanda folklore.

 

Butare is the intellectual centre of the country with its National Museum, several academic (univeristy) and reseach institutions. There is also an aroboratum.

The National Museum in Butare was donated in 1989 by the Belgium government and gave back a part of the ethnographic collection acquired during the colonial period. The design and concept of the museum was realized in co-operation with the Royal Museum for Central Africa of Tervuren, Belgium.

The modern building has different sections and displays a wide collection of monochrome pictures, traditional artefacts and objects, tools and different craft products. Ethnographic objects are grouped together according to theme giving excellent information on the daily life. Traditional ceramics and basketry are still manufactured and belong to the finest handicrafts of the region. The National Museum remained surprisingly untouched during the civil war in 1994.

Highlights: Visit of Nyanza, Museum of Butare, the craft shops in Butare.

Distance: Butare is 135 km from Kigali. A visit can be organized as a day excursion out of Kigali. You can also visit Butare on your way to Nyungwe NP. Nyabisindu (Nyanza) is situated 45 km from Butare and 90 km from Kigali.

 

The museum is the finest ethnographic museum of East-Africa. It reflects well the time spirit at the end of 19th Century when the East-African Kingdoms came in contact with the first Europeans. The rich insights about Rwanda's traditional life and culture and the subsequent development during history will contribute to a better understanding of African history. A must for everybody who's interested in Africa.

 

Weather: Sunny and warm.

 

Nyungwe National Park

Nyungwe forest is an Albertine rift montane rainforest. The Albertine rift forms the epicentre of Africa's montane rainforest circle. It is dominated by a series of mountain chains, originating on the Lendu Plateau in northern Uganda and Congo, running south through the Rwenzori mountains, western Rwanda and Burundi, to some isolated massifs on the shores of Lake Tanganyika. The Albertine rift eco-region is one of Africa's most endemic rich regions.

 

Nyungwe forest received only recently the status of National Park and became the largest protected high-altitude rainforest of East Africa. It was particularly important to protect the forest reserve when you know that the highest population pressures in Africa are to be found within the Albertine rift and that the forest is the biggest water reservoir for the country.

 

The highland forest covers 970 km² and has a unique habitat. It's the only place where we have seen troops of more than 300 colobus monkeys travelling in the trees. The park has 25 % of the primates of Africa with its 13 recorded primate species. It's a primate nirvana!

 

The forest has 300 species of birds with 27 Albertine rift endemics and 121 forest species. The flora is particularly rich with 200 species of trees and more than 100 species of orchids! The park has an extensive network of walking trails that leads you through various waterfalls and viewing points. Nyungwe offers scenic views over the forest, lake Kivu and sometimes also the Virunga.

 

The primate fauna includes: chimpanzee (Pan troglodytes), Rwenzori colobus (colobus angolensis), l'Hoest's monkey (C.l'hoesti), silver monkey (c.mitis doggetti), golden monkey (C.mitis kandti), owl-faced monkey (C.hamlyni), red-tailed monkey (C.ascanius), Den't mona monkey (C.mona denti), vervet monkey (C.aetiops), olive baboon (papio anubis), grey-cheeked mangabey (Cercocebus albigena) and three species of bushbaby.

 

What is a colobus monkey?
 

One mark that distinguish colobus monkeys from other primates is that they do not have thumbs. "Colobus" comes from the Greek word meaning, "mutilated one." Scientists believe that the absence of thumbs is an adaptation to help the monkeys travel through the trees.

Another characteristic that makes them well-suited to tree travel is their long "legs" and short "arms." When travelling among the trees, the monkeys use the branches like trampolines. They jump up and down on the branches, getting as high as 15 metrs in the air. As they leap across to other branches their mantle and tail act as a parachute.

Even their dietary preferences make it easier for them to spend all their time in the trees. The colobus eat about 3 kg of leaves in the morning and evening, and spend the rest of the day grooming and sleeping.

 

Highlights: High-altitude rainforest, primates, bird watching and hiking.
 

Distance: 225 km from Kigali, 90 km from Butare and 54 km from Cyangungu.
 

Nyungwe National Park is a great eco-tourist site with a particular interest for all those who would like to experience a high altitude rainforest, to see other primates than gorillas or chimpanzees, or have interest in bird watching. Hikers will also love Nyungwe with the nice hiking trails and splendid views. A good physical condition is advisable if you want to enjoy fully the forest.

If you compare Nyungwe forest with Kibale Forest (Uganda) one can say that the Kibale is a moist, mid-altitude forest with excellent chimp viewing. Nyungwe forest is an high-altitude forest and offers a better experience with the colobus monkeys and other primates. Chimps in Nyungwe NP are not yet so habituated as in Kibale NP.

 

Weather: Nyungwe lies on an elevation between 1.700 meters and 2.950 meters. The highlands are relatively cool with abundant rainfall.

Lake Kivu

Rwanda counts in total 23 fresh water lakes which fill the Rwandan valleys. Lake Kivu is the largest lake with its 2.699 km² and is divided between Congo and Rwanda. The lake lies on an altitude of 1.459 m and is the highest of Africa. Beneath the lake are located vast reserves of methane gas which have not been exploited. The three towns eastwards on the shores of Lake Kivu; Cyangungu, Kibuye and Gisenyi offer spectacular views. Anyone who has seen this part of the country will agree that "Land of thousand hills" is simply an understatement.

Cyangungu is situated completely south of the lake and is only 53 km from Nyungwe NP. On a hill about 28 km from Kibuye lies the genocide memorial of Bisesero. It's hard to believe that in this beautiful region one of the greatest number of Tutsis were killed.

Kibuye is a tourist centre, visited by foreign and local residents during the weekend. It's an excellent site for some relaxing moments with safe swimming and water sports.

Gisenyi, completely at north of the lake, is probably the most beautiful resort town on Lake Kivu. During the colonial period people came from all over Congo to have their holidays in Goma and Gisenyi.

From Gisenyi, you can cross the border to Congo and visit the city of Goma, devastated by the Nyiaragongo volcano, one of the active Virunga volcanoes on the Congo side which erupted the 17th of January 2002. It's amazing to see how the Congolees people overcame this natural catastrophe. A few weeks after the eruption, small stalls were selling sweets and cigarettes again, business owners were raising their buildings of metal and concrete and started business again.

 

Higlights: The spectacular views, relaxing moments in Kibuye and the excursion to Goma.

 

Distance: Cyangungu-Kibuye 125 km, Kibuye-Gisenyi 110 km, Gisenyi- Ruhengeri 62 km

 

The views are especially interesting around Kibuye and Gisenyi. Rwanda has all over the country different genocide memorials. The one of Bisesero is certainly worth to be visited. An excursion to Goma gives another side of the Virunga Volcanoes and shows how Africans can be creative to overcome some natural forces.

 

Weather: Nice and sunny

 

Gorilla trip to the Virunga Volcanoes

 

The Parc National des Volcans (PNV) is part of the Virunga Conservation Area and covers more than 125 km². PNV is home of five Virunga volcanoes: Sabyinyo (3.674 m), Gahinga (3.474 m), Bisoke (3711 m), Muhabura (4.127 m), and the Karisimbi, the highest volcano with an altitude of 4.507 m. All five volcanoes are extinct, the active ones are located in Congo. Two of them erupted recently; the Nyiragongo erupted in January 2002 and Nyamulagira in July 2002.

The Virunga ecosystem is composed of 4 major vegetation zones: bamboo (base altitude), Hagenia and Hypericum forest (2600-3300m), Sub-alpine (3300-4000m), and Afro-alpine (4000m+).

 

The mountain gorillas spend most of their time in the hagenia woodlands and bamboo forests. During the raing season when new bamboo shoots are growing, the gorillas spend more time foraging in the bamboo forests (base altitude). The climb to the natural habitat of bamboo forest and Hagenia woodlands offers fantastic views.

The PNV was Dian Fossey's base a long time ago (She died on the 26th of December 1985), and it is at the Karisoke Research Center that during 18 years she carried out her study on mountain gorillas.

 

The park was closed for tourism in 1991 when the war broke out and was reopened again in July 1999. The numbers of visitors are increasing every day and the PNV regains its former reputation as the best organized and most popular mountain gorilla sanctuary.

There are 4 gorilla groups habituated for tourism, the Sabinyo group has been divided up in two:

  • Susa group has 35 individuals

  • Amahoro group has 11 individuals

  • Sabyinyo A - group has 13 individuals

  • Sabyinyo B - group has 4 individuals (break away group)

  • Group 13 has 7 individuals
     

Excursions: The lake circuit to the lakes Bulera and Ruhondo offers breath taking sceneries. Unfortunately the dirt road needs to be repared and its actual state is quite dangerous due to the incredible steep hills.

 

Highlights: Gorilla viewing, a day excursion up to the Mt Sabinyo that can be combined with a visit to the grave of Dian Fossey. The Rwanda Tourism Office (ORTPN) is thinking to reopen the Mt Karisimbi again to hikers and mountaineers.

 

Distance (travelling time): Access to the area starts with Ruhengeri a town about 1h30 drive from Kigali and afterwards to Kinigi (14 km from Ruhengeri) where the park headquarters are located.

 

Accommodation: The Kinigi guesthouse (Asoferwa) is situated only 200 meters from the park headquarters and provides comfortable and clean accommodation with breathtaking scenery at the foot of Mt Sabyinyo.

 

Important: Before you travel please check your Tour Voucher and Arrival Information for the latest joining instructions. This will be sent to you upon receipt of final payment.

 

The American naturalist Diane Fossey (Author of Gorillas in the Mist) dispelled the myths and revealed that gorillas are in fact shy and gentle creatures, intelligent, sociable and given to aggression only as a means of defence. We owe Diane Fossey a great debt for bringing the gorillas to public attention and inspiring the governments to introduce laws for their protection. She also contributed largely to set out the basic rules for gorilla viewing. Today the International Gorilla Conservation Programme covers all three countries, and it is most certainly a great privilege to be able to visit these mountain gorillas (gorilla gorilla beringei ).

The entire world population is found in 2 only conservation area. The volcanic Virunga Mountains, which straddle the common borders of Congo, Rwanda and Uganda, and in South Western Uganda's Impenetrable Forest. Both conservation area give a different gorilla experience. The habitat in Bwindi Impenetrable NP is a dense rainforest while in Kinigi, Volcanoes National Park (Rwanda) and Mt Mgahinga (Uganda) the habitat of the gorillas is part of the Virunga, the famous chain of volcanoes located in Congo, Rwanda and also partially in Uganda.

A typical gorilla trekking starts with assigning the visitors to the respective habituated gorilla groups. In Bwindi the groups are assigned when buying the gorilla permit while in Rwanda the Park Authorities will assign them on site the day of the trekking.

After this formality the Rangers will give you a briefing of the way they will conduct this fantastic guided nature walk to the gorillas. They will give you extensive information on the environment, the gorilla family you will visit and the way you should behave with them. The so named “gorilla rules” will be clearly set out because it’s a corner stone in the conservation of the gorillas. There is not only a high risk of disease transmission to gorillas and vice versa, but the daily visits can cause behavioural disturbance and stress to gorillas. Please respect the rules!

After the briefing we will drive you to nearest location outside the park and from there your rangers will guide you to the gorillas. Gorilla trekking is unpredictable and it’s difficult to foresee how many hours you will hike. In Bwindi the hiking time are generally much challenging. The terrain is usually more difficult in the rainforest and hiking times are longer because when looking for food Bwindi gorillas tend to travel longer distances per day. In Rwanda the gorilla trekking is usually easier except for the challenging Sussa group located at the Karisimbi volcano.

This doesn’t mean that you don’t need a good physical condition in Rwanda. We have seen several times that visitors had some problems during their trekking. Rain can get you by surprise and during the dry season gorilla tend to climb higher for their preferred bamboo shoots. It has to be said that the park rangers and the porters are extremely helpful and will do everything they can to make sure that visitors can see the gorillas. We therefore strongly advise not to hesitate to take a porter. Porters can not only be very efficient but in return you help local communities to benefit from tourism! There is also a very efficient rescue team available in the parks for visitor getting in trouble!

For conservation purposed the time spend with the gorillas is limited to one hour. The daily visits have an impact on gorilla activity patterns. The daily visits are a source of animal stress and less feeding are a strong justification for he one-hour rule.

Gorilla trekking is the strongest animal experience ever! Tracking the gorillas is a unique experience - it leads you to meet unusual creatures on their own terms and it’s a very intense and trilling experience! You will be rewarded with a certificate of the National Park!

 

Weather conditions: Due to the altitude it is generally quite cold, especially during the evenings. Gorilla viewing is possible all the year round.
 

The area is well protected and there is no need for concern about personal security. The rangers are very kind and motivated, and they will do everything possible to make it a pleasant trip. It is still a wonderful place to see the mountain gorilla, and it normally offers excellent opportunities for photos. The gorilla trekking is less strenuous than in Bwindi Impenetrable NP however the altitude may cause difficulties for some visitors and gorillas tend to climb higher during dry season. A good physical condition is also here recommended.

 

Akagera National Park

Akagera NP is located in the east of Rwanda along the Akagera river which is the natural border with Tanzania. The park was created in 1936 and was once in terms of natural beauty, landscape, scenery and animal life, one of the best national parks in Africa. The National Park has been de-gazetted by two-thirds of its original territory due to human pressure. Wildlife has also been considerably reduced during the war by heavy poaching. The park has still a remarkable selection of birdlife with over 500 bird species in its swamps and wetlands along the Akagera River.

 

Opinion: We have not yet included Akagera our program as we need to make more research on the activities to be developed. At this stage there is no accommodation in the park which makes camping necessary. The park has still an important potential for Rwanda tourism industry, new impulses are necessary to set the park on track again.
 

VISA INFORMATION

A passport and evidence of yellow fever immunization are required. Visa generally required except for American and UK citizens entering Rwanda for less than 90 days and citizens of Burundi, DRC, Uganda and Tanzania; Those requiring a visa must obtain these in advance of travelling.
 

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Footprint Adventures Ltd.

Registered Office 5 Malham Drive, Lincoln, LN6 0XD, UK.  Tel + 44 (0) 1522 804929 Fax + 44 (0) 1522 306156
 
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Last Updated 02/05/2008

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