Nepal
Trekking Home Page
Langtang Region Everest
Region Chitwan and Bardia
Annapurna Conservation Area
The Annapurna Conservation Area has been
claimed as one of the best trekking areas in the world. It is also the most
visited trekking area in the country. The area spread around Kaski, Mustan,
Managand Lamjung districts of Central Nepal. Beginning 7 metres, the area
reaches as high as 8,091 metres of Mt. Annapurna. Ghandruk is the first
experience and further down is Gorepani that provides fantastic panoramic
view of the Annapurna ranges. Equally eye catching are hills of
rhododendrons that blossom every spring. The turning point of the Annapurna
Circuit is Jomsom. The trek southeast from Jomsom, leads to the scenic
Tilicho Lake area at an altitude of 4,919 metres. In the Circuit route, is
the famous Hindus religious sites Muktinath Temple. The vegetation in this
region includes various species of orchids and rhododendron. Wildlife
includes around 100 different kinds of mammals including rare snow leopards
and blue sheep. The region also boasts of around 478 species of reptiles
includingmuli-coloured Impheyan, Koklas and blood pheasants. In addition the
region is also home to 39 species of reptiles and 22 species of amphibians.
Best time to visit the park is between October and November.
Trekking in Annapurna Region
Beside the Everest region, the area around
the Annapurna massif is perhaps the best known trekking destination in
Nepal. Based on sheer numbers of trekking visitors it is certainly the most
popular. As the title suggests, the centre piece of this part of Nepal is
the range of mountains that includes Annapurna I, the first of the 8000
meter peaks to be climbed. Also included in this general area is another
8000 meter giant, Dhaulagiri, which is located west of Annapurna I. Between
these two mountains runs the valley of the Kali-Gandaki River, the deepest
gorge on earth. Combine this with lush, fertile farming land, stands of
undistributed natural forest and a mixture of different ethnic inhabitants
and you have a diverse range of experiences that makes this area one of the
most satisfying trekking destinations in Nepal.
The fact that the main Himalayan range
runs south of the border with Tibet means that that the northern parts of
the area are in the rain shadow and are considerably drier than the southern
slopes of the mountains. This leads to unusually diverse landscapes.
Permits and Fees
For most of the Annapurna trekking area,
no trekking permits are required. The exception is upper Mustang where a fee
of US$700 per person is levied for a ten-day visit. Additional restrictions
relating to Mustang will be outlined later.
Most of the area discussed in the trek
descriptions is within the area controlled by Annapurna Conservation Area
Project. Entry to this area is controlled and an entry permit has to be
purchased. The permit must be purchased before starting the trek and can be
obtained in Kathmandu or Pokhara. The proceeds of these fees are largely
used for the local community development within the project area.
Getting There
Regardless of the trek chosen it is most
likely that Pokhara will be either starting or ending point of your trek.
Pokhara is located 200 km. west of Kathmandu and can be reached by road in
five to six hour or by air in 30 minutes from the capital. For road travel
there are a number of tourist buses available daily from Kathmandu and from
Chitwan.
There is no shortage of tourist facilities
to be found in and around Pokhara. The main center for tourists is at the
side of the largest of the three lakes in the area, Phewa Tal. The suburbs
of Lakeside and Damside both provide a wide range of accommodation and
restaurants along with the usual variety of trekking and traveling agencies
and suppliers of souvenirs and trekking equipment. For those trekking in the
eastern side of the Annapurna massif the most likely starting point will be
Besishahar, the district headquarters of Lamjung district. Buses from
Kathmandu, Pokhara and the Terai arrive and depart here on a regular daily
basis. The bus trip from Kathmandu to Besishahar takes around four to five
hours but, at this time, there are no tourist bus services available.
Most treks starting or ending in Pokhara
will require the use of buses or hired cars to reach the trailheads.
Specific details appear in the trek descriptions.
Flora and Fauna
As can be imagined, the range of
geographical and climatic regions has led to a diverse variety of flora and
fauna within the Annapurna region. Both Pokhara and Besishahar are below
1000 meter elevation and their climate is quiet tropical. These parts of
area are heavily cultivated and the landscape, therefore, largely consists
of terraced paddy fields for most of the year. The area is also famous for
its winter crops of oranges, which can be purchased fresh from the trees
along the trails in the foothills. As you progress higher up into the hills
the natural vegetation changes from the tropical species to more temperate
stands of forest trees including oak, beech and rhododendron. These finally
give way to coniferous forests of pine and, ultimately, juniper just below
the tree line. In the rain shadow, to the north of the mountains, the
landscape is quite barren being an extension south of the Tibetan plateau.
Here there are only stunted bushes and shrubs except for close to the rivers
where irrigated cropping is possible.
Native animals to be seen include many
birds the most obvious being the pika, blue sheep and Himalayan Tahr.
Trekking styles
Most of the trekking routes in the
Annapurna region are well serviced by teahouses for most of their length.
This is particularly true for most popular treks-the Jomsom trek, the
Annapurna circuit and Annapurna base camp treks.
Trekkers should be aware, however that
there is always the risk of being stranded by bad weather or injury/sickness
between teahouses, particularly in the more remote parts of the trek
itineraries. a good example is on the Annapurna circuit where there is one
very long day when the high pass of Thorong La has to be crossed. There is
little or no shelter available for most of this day and some trekkers have
been caught unprepared by bad weather and altitude problems.
The treks in less developed areas,
particularly the Dhaulagiri circuit and the trek east of Lamjung, definitely
require trekkers to be self sufficient in food and shelter.
People and Culture
The most prominent ethnic groups in the
Annapurna region are the Gurung, the Thakali and the Manangba. The Gurungs
are the most widely distributed being found from the hills of Gorkha
district to as far west as Palpa. There heartland, however, is centered on
the hills and valleys between the Marsyandi river and the kali Gandaki. The
Thakali come from the upper kali Gandaki valley around Jomsom where their
traditional farming has being supplemented by trade and, in particular,
hotel and restaurant businesses. The Manangba are found in the upper reaches
of the Marsyandi River and are in many ways similar to the Gurungs to whom
they are possibly related. They are skilled traders and trace their roots
back to Tibet. Religiously, the Manangba and the Gurungs of the upper hills
is Buddhist with traces of their ancient, shamanistic faith still apparent.
The communities live further south are predominantly Hindu.
All of the communities, particularly the
Gurungs are famed for their cultural performances, which are easily seen
while trekking in the region. Many villages along the trails will arrange
performances for trekkers during the main seasons.
When to visit?
As with most of the trekking areas in
Nepal, the best time to visit are during spring and autumn. Spring is the
time for rhododendrons while the clearest skies are found after the monsoon
in October and November. At these times the weather is generally mild and
there is little rainfall. Unlike other parts of Nepal, the monsoon, from
June to September, is the ideal time to visit pats of the region that falls
in the rain shadow. In particular, upper mustang is the perfect destination
during the rainy season. The winter months provide good trekking conditions
throughout the foothills but some of the higher passes will be closed due to
snow.
Annapurna Circuit
The classic trek in the Annapurna region
is the Annapurna circuit. The complete circuit has only been possible since
mid 1980's when the Manang area was officially opened up to non-Nepali
visitors. For and all-round experience of the scenery and culture of Nepal
this trek has a lot to offer. Starting in the lush Marsyandi valley, that
separates the Annapurna range from that of Manaslu, the scenery is composed
of lush cultivated fields with dense forests on either side. In the winter
season, orange tree are laden with fruits and fragrant frangipani blossoms
cast their scent along the trails. As you travel higher the valley becomes
more rugged until the villages and forests finally give way to the arid
hills of Manang. The Thorong La pass, at 5416 meters, marks the highpoint of
the treks after which the trail joins the kali Gandaki river that flows
through the deepest gorge on earth.
This is a challenging trek that is not
without some risks. The crossing of Thorong La can be dangerous at times,
especially during unexpected snowfall so potential trekkers must make sure
that they are well prepared and equipped for all eventualities. The trek can
be completed in a minimum of fifteen days, starting in Kathmandu and
finishing in Pokhara. If a few extra days are allowed for it is then
possible to enjoy several of the possible side trips and add immeasurably to
the experience. And entry permit for the Annapurna conservation area project
(ACAP) is needed for this trek.
Most trekkers start the trek by taking the
bus from Kathmandu to Besishahar. These days the journey accomplished in
around five or six hours which allows a few hours trekking on the first day.
The trail from Besishahar follows the partly constructed road as far as the
small market town of Kuldi. This road can be avoided by crossing the river
below Besishahar and trekking along the east bank of the river rejoining the
main trail at Bhul Bhule.
The first few days of the trek follow the
Marshyangdi through scattered farming communities by a mixer predominantly
composed of Gurungs but with a sizeable numbers of Brahmin communities. The
crop range from rice and wheat at the lower elevations to corn, millet and
barley as the altitude increases. Above the valley floor the hills are
cloaked in forest with the occasional clearing indicating human settlements.
Higher still, the snowy peak of the Annapurna and the Manaslu ranges
dominate the skyline. A feature of this section of the trek is the number of
high waterfalls that cascade down into the main river. The valley rises
slowly slow altitude sickness is rarely a problem at this stage.
After a four days on the trail the river,
which has been flowing from the north changes its course and flows from the
west. At this point the landscape changes with steep rocky gorges on its
side and large stands of pine making up the forest cover. By the time the
district headquarters of Chame has been passed the hills are becoming more
and more barren and the people predominantly Manangba. Look for a number of
ancient temples, some of which represent the pre-Buddhist, Bon religion.
The tree line is reached a few hours
before arriving at mustang where a compulsory rest day should be taken for
acclimatization to the increasing altitude. There are a number of possible
side trips from Manang that can be taken on the acclimatization day. Perhaps
the most spectacular is to the west, across the river and up to the
Gangapurna glacier with its deep blue lake formed by the melting glacial
ice. The Himalayan rescue association clinic is located in Manang village
and holds afternoon awareness lectures for trekkers warning of the dangers
of AMS. These lectures are well worth attending.
From Manang, the trial passes through high
alpine pastures until the small cluster of teahouses at Thorong Phedi id
reached. An early morning start from here will allow you to reach Thorong La
by mid morning and then start the long descent across the scree slopes to
Muktinath before the afternoon cloud sweeps in. the whole section have no
permanent settlements and shelter is hard to find. For safety, trekkers
should never travel alone this section.
Muktinath, a famed pilgrimage site for
both Buddhists and Hindus, is the first major settlement reached after the
crossing of Thorong La. Be sure to visit the temples here and especially
look for the eternal flame, fuelled by natural gas, which can be found in
the small Buddhist temple below the main shrine.
From Muktinath the views of the west are
now of the Dhaulagiri range while to the north can be seen the arid hills of
upper mustang. The trial Leeds down through villages inhabited by people of
Tibetan stock until it reaches the banks of the kali Gandaki River, the home
of Thakali people. A further four days trekking down through this, the
deepest valley on earth, brings you to the road head at Beni from where
buses to Pokhara can be found. Settlements of particular interest below
Muktinath are Jomsom with its airport, a possible exit point to Pokhara,
Marpha with its fascinating medieval architecture designed to ward off the
fierce winds that blow daily up the gorge and Tatopani with its hot springs.
There are a number of possible side trip
that can be combined with the Annapurna circuit. Either from the Manang side
or from below Jomsom it is possible to trek up to the high-altitude lake at
Tilicho. You must allow at least four days for this trek and be fully
self-sufficient. Also on the eastern side of the kali Gandaki there is a
trial that leads to the original north Annapurna base camp that was used by
the French expedition that first scaled the peak. On the western side of the
valley treks to Hidden valley via Dhampus pass and to the Dhaulagiri icefall
are also possible option. All of these site trips are suitable only for fit
and experienced parties who are fully self-sufficient.
Annapurna Sanctuary (Annapurna base
Camp)
the other classic trek in the Annapurna
region is to the so called Annapurna sanctuary, the site of the base camp
used by expeditions attempting the massive south face of Annapurna I. a
short trek, it can be completed in as little as eight days from Pokhara. The
trek to Annapurna base camp combines some of the most spectacular mountain
scenery with a fascinating insight into the life of middle hill Nepalis. The
best time to visit the sanctuary is during the main trekking season of
spring and autumn but since the route is not a circuit, the trial, and the
teahouses, can become crowded at these times. Winter trek are possible but
at any time trekkers must beware of snowfall and avalanches that can block
the narrow entrance to the sanctuary.
This trek is usually started and ended in
Pokhara but it can also be made a part of the Annapurna circuit or the
Jomsom trek by trekking from Tatopani through Ghorepani and Tadapani and
joining the main sanctuary trial at Chomrong. For maximum enjoyment, allow
twelve or fourteen days for the trek, which allows time for exploration
inside the sanctuary and also the chance to extend the route on to Ghorepani
and Poon hill. Trekkers traveling this route must obtain an ACAP entry
permit either from Kathmandu or Pokhara before commencing the trek.
To start the trek at Pokhara there are a
number of choices of route. Perhaps the best is to take a taxi or bus to
Naudanda Phedi where the trial up to Dhampus will be found. The route passes
through a number of Gurung settlements including Dhampus, Pothana and
Landrung. At Landrung the choice is to cross to Ghandrung, a descent and
subsequent climb involving several hundred meters of elevation change, or to
continue on up the Modi khola through Naya Pul. Both trials join at Chomrong
at the foot of the gorge leading to the sanctuary. An additional attraction
on the Naya Pul trial is a very welcome hot spring half way to Chomrong.
From Chomrong there is only one trial,
which follows the ever-narrowing most khola to finally enter the sanctuary.
Due to the altitude gain, two nights must be spent between Chomrong and the
sanctuary in order to avoid the risk of AMS. There are a number of
settlements in the valley, providing ample accommodation. However, during
winter it is wide to check at Chomrong in case the teahouse up the valley
has closed for the off season.
The trial up the Modi khola passes through
dense stands of rhododendron and bamboo for the first day. By the time the
large rock overhang, known as Hinku cave, is reached the vegetation has
thinned and the gorge narrowed to be only a few hundred meters wide. Steep,
snow-clad ridges falling from Himchuli on the left and Machhapuchhre on the
right from the entrance to the sanctuary. as you pass through the "gate”
and enter the sanctuary you will find yourself in a huge amphitheater
enclosed by a solid wall of snow capped peaks which include Annapurna I, II,
III and IV plus the fish tailed spire of the Machhapuchhre. Teahouses are
available at Machhapuchhre base camp, just inside the sanctuary, or at
Annapurna base camp, a further two hours beyond.
Spend at least one full day inside the
sanctuary. Side trips across the south Annapurna glacier, north from
Annapurna base camp allow for an even better appreciation of this unique
place.
Return by the same route to Chomrong where
you can choose to retrace your outward steps or deviate through either
Ghandrung or Ghorepani.
Annapurna Foothills
There are a number of options for short
treks in the foothills to the north of Pokhara. Most of these variations
will visit Ghandrung and Ghorepani. The former is a large, traditional
Gurung village while Ghorepani is the settlement below the famed vantage
point of Poon hill, one of the best spots from which to view the central
Nepal Himalaya range.
The various itineraries are all relatively
easy and none reach high enough elevations for AMS to be an issue. Generally
between five and six trekking days are sufficient for any of the itinerary
option. All enter the ACAP area so an entry permit is required. The permit
should be obtained either in Kathmandu or Pokhara prior to starting the
trek. Teahouses are plentiful through the foothills but there are a couple
of alternative routes that will require the trekker to be self-sufficient if
these trails are chosen.
The most commonly trekked of the foothill
itineraries starts and ends at Naya Pul on the Baglung highway(not to be
confused with the Naya Pul on the Modi Khola beyond Landrung).traveling by
bus or taxi, the journey to Naya Pul takes around one to two hours. Cross
the Modi khola at Naya Pul and trek through Birethanti to Syauli Bazaar
following the river through cultivated fields and small villages. At Syauli
Bazaar the trial climbs steeply to the large Gurung village of Ghandrung
(pronounced Ghandruk by the locals). Here there is wide selection of
teahouses and community operates craft and cultural displays. An extra day
spent at Ghandrung experiencing the traditional Gurung way of life is well
worthwhile.
From Ghandrung the main trial passes
through Tadapani to the pass at Ghorepani. Above the hill is Phoon hill, a
climb of around three hundred meters. The reward for making the climb at
dawn or dusk is one of the best mountain panoramas in Nepal. The view takes
in Dhaulagiri, the Annapurnas and, in the distance, the Manaslu range.
From Ghorepani there are three choices.
The most commonly taken route drops down the villages of Ulleri and
Turkedhunga to Birethanti, the original starting point of the trek. There is
a steep trial and can be quite crowded during the peak seasons. It passes
through sense stands of oak and rhododendron until Ulleri is reached after
which the landscape is mostly cultivated fields.
Another option is to continue on from
Ghorepani and descend to the kali Gandaki at Tatopani (see Annapurna circuit
trek description). After a night at Tatopani the river can be followed down
to Beni from where buses to Pokhara are available.
The third possibility is to trek along the
ridge that starts at Phoon hill. There is little in the way of permanent
settlement until the high point of the ridge at Bhuka is reached. Just below
the hill is Gurung village of Langdi while a couple of hours further down
the ridge are Tangle, another Gurung settlement. From here it is only a
short distance back to the main trial at Birethanti and Naya Pul. This ridge
walk is quite isolated and no teahouse accommodation is available making
self-sufficiency essential. It has the advantage of being well off the
normal tourist route and allows for an insight into local culture that is
harder to find on the main trial.
Jomsom and Muktinath
The Jomsom trek is probably the single
most popular trek in Nepal. The diverse landscapes and cultures to be found
along the trek route give a marvelous insight into the way of life of rural
Nepalese people. The main feature of trek is the walk through the George
craved by the kali Gandaki River, which carries water from the Tibetan
plateau to eventually join the Ganges in India.
Normally trekkers continue on above Jomsom
to Muktinath, the famous pilgrimage site for both Buddhists and Hindus. To
Hindus, Muktinath is sacred as the place of salvation. They believe that to
wash in the waters here guarantees salvation after death. The Hindu god,
Brahma, is thought to have lit the eternal flames that still burn at
Muktinath. To the Buddhists it is a place that the great sage guru Rinpoche
(Padmasambhava) meditated at, and to all, it is the source of fossilized
ammonites, known locally as shaligrams, which are found all along the upper
reaches of kali Gandaki. The people of this part of Nepal are a mixture of
Gurung and Magar in the lower stretches of the kali Gandaki, Thakali people
around Jomsom and people with obvious Tibetan roots, the Lopa, around
Muktinath and up into mustang. Their customs and dress are all quite
distinct and this trek gives a chance to see those differences. The
religions seen range from Hinduism in the lower parts to the Tibetan style
Buddhism as you travel further north. Should you be in Muktinath In early
September you will be able to see one of Nepal’s unique festivals, the
annual horse races known as Yartung. This is a week of some serious horse
racing, Tibetan style, and some equally serious merrymaking.
Most of the route for the Jomsom trek has
been described as part of the Annapurna circuit and Annapurna foothills
treks. The normal standing point is Naya Pul on the Pokhara to Baglung road
and fro there, via Ghorepani and Tatopani, into the gorge of kali Gandaki.
Between Tatopani and Lete khola the
scenery changes dramatically. Pine forests crowd in on the trial and the
villages take on a quite different appearance. The layout of the villages
and the design of the houses are both quite unique to this area. They are
designed to protect their inhabitants from the strong winds that blow up the
valley everyday from late morning onwards. These winds are caused by
differences in atmospheric pressure between the Tibetan plateau and the
lower reaches of the valley. The best example of this unique architecture is
to be found at the village of Marpha which is a two hour walk below Jomsom.
The stone flagged streets with an efficient underground drainage system and
the flat roofed houses all with a central courtyard make an attractive spot
to spend an extra rest day. Sample the apple products from the prolific
orchards that have been set up in the valley.
Jomsom is best known for its airport that
offers a quick entry or exit to the valley with regular daily flights from
Pokhara. Remember that the winds that blow up the valley normally mean that
no flights can arrive or depart from Jomsom after 11 am. Jomsom can also be
considered as a place to use as a base for exploring the upper part of the
kali Gandaki. There are numerous accommodation options including a new
high-class resort complex.
An alternative to Jomsom as a final base
for the trek is the village of Kagbeni; a further two hours up the valley.
Kagbeni is much less commercialized than Jomsom and certainly much quieter.
This is as far as trekkers are allowed to go towards upper Mustang without
having a special trek permit and an accompanying environmental officer. For
details see the upper mustang treks description. From Kagbeni to Muktinath
takes three to four and trekkers can choose to do this as a day trip or to
stay at one of the many teahouses available at Muktinath.
Sikles
The Gurung village of Sikles has been
established by the ACA project as a model trekking village and is an
internal part of their eco-route. It is located to the north east of Pokhara,
at about 2000 meters elevation, in the shadow of Annapurna II and Lamjung
Himal. It is a large village, possibly the second largest Gurung village in
Nepal, and is a well-preserved example of traditional Gurung culture. While
here, the trekker can easily spend several days experiencing local
life-style, handicraft production and sight-seeing. Of particular interest
are the local cloth weaving and the ancient water driven flourmills.
Above the village is Rishing Danda, from
where a marvelous panoramic view of the peaks of Annapurna II and Lamjung
can be seen. This place is also famous as a point from which to see
avalanches thundering down off the mountain sides.
Folk songs and dances are an important
part of Gurung life and cultural performances are common occurrences in
Sikles. Of particular interest here is the Ghantu dance, traditionally
performed by three young girls.
Accommodation in Sikles can be either in
teahouses or, by prior arrangement with ACAP Pokhara office, in village
homes.
To get to Sikles it is best to do the
round trip, starting in Pokhara and taking a taxi to Kabhre Danda. From here
it takes two days t trek to Sikles via Chansu. To return, follow the
eco-route through the Ghalekhaeka and Diprang and back into Pokhara in a
further three days easy trekking.
Lamjung Trek
The area to the east of the Marshyandi
River, between Lamjung and Gorkha districts, has a great deal of potential
for remote area treks. This part of the country has not developed any of the
conventional tourist infrastructures so groups will need to be fully
self-sufficient and have competent guides familiar with the local trials. No
special permits are required.
The best destinations are the lakes of
Mimi Pokhari and Dudh Pokhari, which are located on the southwestern slopes
of Baudha Himal and Himal Chuli, both a part of the Manaslu massif. These
two lakes are pilgrimage sites for local Gurung people during the summer
months. The best starting point for treks to both of these lakes is either
Phalensangu or Besishahar.
Beyond Dudh Pokhari is a high pass, Rupina
Bhanjyang, which takes the trekker in to the valley of the Budhi Gandaki.
Alternatively, from Dudh Pokhari a trail can be followed into the Deurandi
khola valley and on to Gorkha.
To the west of the Marshyandi River there
are other possibilities for self-sufficient trekkers. There is much more
habitation on the side of the river but little or no tourist facilities.
Treks from Besishahar through the villages of Ghalegaon, Bhujung, and on
towards Sikles are possible but, again, guides with local knowledge are
essential. An ACAP entry permit is required to trek past Ghalegaon. A number
of village home stay programmes are being developed in the area, which will
afford visitors a unique insight into rural life.
Above Ghalegaon a remote trial leads
through uninhabited country to the high pass of Namun La. This pass leads
down to the Marshyandi khola near Bagarchap on the Annapurna circuit route.
Trekkers attempting this route must ensure that they and their staff are
well prepared for this crossing which is often snow bound.
Dhaulagiri Circuit
A circuit of Dhaulagiri massif is possible
for well-equipped and fully self-sufficient parties. The minimum time that
should be allowed for this itinerary is eighteen days Pokhara to Pokhara but
a few extra days to allow for side trips or bad weather are advisable. The
route crosses two high which are in remote country far from any assistance.
Particular care must be taken with regards to proper acclimatization and
staff equipment. Since much of the first half of the trek travels on rarely
trekked trails, the services of an experienced local guide are highly
recommended. No special permits are required for the Dhaulagiri circuit but
for the last part, down the kali Gandaki, an ACAP entry permit is needed.
The trek is best started at Beni, the
district headquarters of Myagdi district. Myagdi is one of the most easterly
of the districts where the Magar people can be found. This group of hill
dwellers are similar in many ways to their Gurung neighbors but are thought
to have settled in Nepal some time earlier. Like their Gurung cousins, the
Magar have a tradition of service in the Gurkha regiments. Regular bus
services operate from Pokhara as far as Baglung and from there, are less
frequent services to Beni.
The Dhaulagiri trail follows the Myagdi
khola, the river that drains the southern side of the Dhaulagiri massif.
Passing through the settlements of Darbang and Muri, the country is still
quite heavily populated with scattered villages and farming land. Beyond
Muri, the Myagdi khola swings north and the landscape becomes much more
rugged and sparsely populated. The tree line is reached just below the sit
of the, so called, Italian base camp, located at the snout of the
Chhonbaraan Glacier, is an ideal place to spend an acclimatization day
exploring the hills around about.
The next two days are spent on the
glacier, the second night being at Dhaulagiri base camp, a rugged spot with
some spectacular views of the western face of Dhaulagiri.
From here the trial crosses French pass
which at 5360 meters is the highest point of the trek. Descending French
pass you enter the lonely but fascinating area known as Hidden valley. This
place is one of the few true wilderness areas accessible to trekkers in
Nepal. The valley stretches away to the north eventually narrowing to a
rugged gorge that connects to Upper Dolpa. There are reports of many
endangered species residing in this area including the elusive snow leopard.
If all the members and the staff of the group are fit then a rest and
exploration day spent in hidden valley is well worth while.
From Hidden valley the trial now crosses
Dhampus pass (sometimes known as Thapa pass). While not as high as French
pass, it is roughly 100 meters lower, Dhampus pass has a reputation for bad
weather which can make the crossing and subsequent descent something of a
problem. Trekkers must be aware of the health of their group members and
staff, especially on the section between French pass and Dhampus pass. Any
person suffering from the symptoms of AMS must never be taken on over French
pass but rather, taken back down the Myagdi khola to a lower altitude.
Having a group member suffer from AMS between the passes poses a serious
problem as the only way to get the patient assistance is to ascend which
would make the problem worse.
Having crossed Dhampus pass the trial
descends into the valley of the kali Gandaki meeting the main trial at
either Marpha or Tukuche. On the way down to the valley there are some
spectacular views across to the Annapurnas and up into the arid steppes of
Mustang.
The rest of the trek is described in the
Annapurna circuit description.
Upper Mustang
To trek into upper mustang is a rare
privilege. Here you will experience the way of life of the true mountain
people, for years, cut off from the rest of Nepal. In many ways, a trek into
upper mustang is similar to trekking into Tibet, which geographically it is
a part of. The district of Mustang was, until 1950, a separate kingdom
within the boundaries of Nepal. The last king, the raja of mustang, still
has his home at the ancient capital, Lo Manthang.
Access to upper Mustang has only been
possible for non-Nepalese trekkers for around ten years and, even today,
access is still heavily regulated and restricted. To enter upper Mustang,
that is to travel further north than Kagbeni, trekkers need a special
trekking permit and mist be accompanied by a government appointed
environmental officer. The expenses of the environmental officer have to
borne by the group. Trekker must have arranged their trek through a
government recognized trekking agency in order to be issued permits. The
cost of the trekking permit is US$700 per person for ten-day trek in the
restricted area.
Upper Mustang, being in the Himalayan rain
shadow, is one of the few parts of the country that are suitable for
trekking during the summer monsoon period. Even at this time, the upper kali
Gandaki valley is still quiet dry with only occasional rainfall. The Mustang
trek is not particularly difficult, the highest point reached is only 3800
meters, but the conditions at times can be arduous. Cold in winter and windy
and dusty all year. Winter treks are best avoided due to southern parts of
the country and even India.
There are few accommodation facilities
available above Kagbeni so groups must be fully self-sufficient, especially
in fuel. While porters are available in Jomsom it is preferable, in Mustang,
to use mules to carry the loads. These pack animals are available locally
and are more economical, and certainly more environmentally friendly, than
human porters.
The Mustang trek requires a minimum of
nine days starting and ending in Kagbeni. This allows the trek to be
completed within the ten-day permit period. The route basically follows the
kali Gandaki valley but, on occasions, climbs high above the valley walls.
The settlements are scattered with little sign of cultivation between
villages. In Mustang, little will grow without irrigation, which makes the
settlements reminiscent of oases.
Lo Manthang, the old capital, is reached
in four days and at least one extra day should be spent here for local
sight-seeing. Ponies are available for hire for this purpose.
The return trip can either follow the
upward route or, for an alternative, the eastern bank of the kali Gandaki
may be followed.
Short Treks out of Pokhara
There are a number of relatively easy
short treks that can be undertaken around Pokhara. The area south of Phewa
Tal is particularly suitable, with treks of two to five days being possible.
This area, however, has fewer accommodation facilities so self-sufficiency
is generally required. These trekking routes pass through some very
attractive rural communities and with the low altitude reached, make
suitable winter treks. It can get uncomfortably hot during the summer
months, however.
Possibly the most attractive destination
is Panchase, a 250 meter high hill to the west of Pokhara. This hill gives a
Himalayan Panorama that rivals that found that at Poon hill. The easiest
access to Panchase is from the village of Badauri, which can be reached on
foot or vehicle from Naudanda on the Baglung highway. From Badauri it is a
pleasant three to four hour walk through the forest to Panchase Deurali
where some basic lodging is available. The hilltops are a further hour or so
from here.
The Panchase trek can be extended in
several ways. From Panchase hill it is possible to trek through the large
Gurung village of Arthor and continues on to Karkinetta. Here some very
basic accommodation may be found. The choice then is to trek to Kusma, on
the Baglung highway in one day from where a bus can be taken back to Pokhara.
Alternatively, there are buses and jeeps available at Karkinetta that
connect directly with Pokhara.
Another possibility is to trek from
Panchase back to Pokhara via the ridge that runs through the villages of
Bhumdi and Pumdi. By taking this route you are able to complete the trek at
the peace Stupa above Phewa Tal and then descend to the lake and reach lake
side by boat. This route gives excellent views of the Himalaya with Phewa
Tal in the foreground. No tea houses are available until the peace Stupa is
reached.
To the north of Pokhara there is the, so
called, royal trek. This for-day trek follows the ridges above Pokhara's
second largest lake, Begnas Tal. No teahouses are available so groups need
to be self-sufficient.
Views of the Annapurnas and back to
Pokhara are worthwhile from the ridge top as a number of interesting Gurung
villages is visited on the way. This is a particularly good route during the
colder winter months.
