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India Trekking
THE DALHOUSIE TREK
Introduction
Himachal Pradesh is a small state tucked away
between the steamy plains of North India and the massive ranges of the Great
Himalaya to the north. Given its location the geographic spectrum of the state
is vast, ranging from the rolling Shivalik foothills to the massive 6000m peaks
of the Pir Pinjal. Not surprisingly, there is a wildlife diversity to
complement this, with sub-tropical forests, temperate woodlands and alpine
meadows in close proximity. Similarly, given its strategic position between the
former Northwest Frontier, the sub-continent and the Tibetan plateau the region
has long been a melting pot of diverse cultural and spiritual influences.
The Dhaula Dhar range forms part of the
outermost Himalaya and rises dramatically from the low foothills to stark peaks
of over 5000m. These mountains are the traditional stronghold of nomadic
traders and shepherds. The Gaddis are charismatic folk of Aryan descent who
raise flocks of sheep and goat between the foothills and the high grazing
meadows bordering Ladakh and Tibet. The Gujjars are hardworking Muslims who
tend buffalo herds, selling much of their milk based produce to the sweet makers
in the plains. The steeply sloping flanks of the Dhaula Dhar provide winter
homes for these traditional traders as well as a base for their families who
make a good living from the land in their absence. In recent years, the lower
hills have become home to many of the followers of the exiled Tibetan leader,
the Dalai Lama. Thankfully, Himachal Pradesh has escaped the notice of
mainstream trekkers and is still an unspoilt part of the Himalayas with most of
the local customs, cultures and landscapes still intact. Outside the main
tourist destination of Mcleod Ganj, foreign groups are rarely seen.
Route Profile
The trek takes us from the small hill station
of Dalhousie to the bustling town of Mcleod Ganj near Dharamsala. From Dalhousie
we traverse the remote ridges and valleys that flank the Dhaula Dhar peaks to
the north. Following remote trails and crossing numerous small jots or passes
we finally reach the base of the Indrahar Pass that leads into the Chamba
valley. From the top of the pass the views of the surrounding Himalaya are
stunning.
Although not high in altitude, the trails are
often indistinct and steep. Sometimes there are snow patches to cross on the
north facing slopes. The latter part of the route is less taxing but the ascent
of the pass (optional) is tough and requires some experience of altitude. The
camp staff are all local to the area and this adds to the enjoyment of this trek
(it is one of their favourites). There are also very sure-footed and always
available to give a helping hand across rivers or slippery paths. A great trek
for those who wish to get away from it all and experience the nomadic shepherd
lifestyle!
ITINERARY
Day 1:
DEPART LONDON.
Day 2:
ARRIVE DELHI,
SIGHTSEEING THEN TRANSFER TO OVERNIGHT TRAIN.
You will be met and transferred by taxi to your Delhi hotel (for
information on Delhi hotels please see the notes at the end of the itinerary).
You check out at midday and in the afternoon we provide transport and an
English-speaking guide to take you on a sightseeing tour of Old and New Delhi.
The heat, dust, sights and sounds of India's frenetic capital are quite an
initial culture shock! This is followed by an evening (approx. 19.00 hours)
transfer to the railway station to board the express train to Pathankot,
travelling in air-conditioned sleeper compartments. The express is due
to depart at 21.00 hours.
Day 3:
ARRIVE PATHANKOT, DRIVE TO DALHOUSIE. The train arrives at 07.20 hrs. A two and a half hour taxi ride takes
us to Dalhousie (2400m) You break your journey to have breakfast en-route.
A short walk from this small hill station takes us to our first campsite
for the night (2540m). Camping.
Day 4:
TREK TO FOREST GLADE. Approximately 6 hours walk. A good day of
walking along the upper ridges of the Dhaula Dhar, at about 3000m with views of
the Pir Pinjal, the Great Himalaya and the Kashmir ranges. Camp.
Day 5: TREK TO NAURI.
Approximately 5/6 hours walk.
Continuing through Gujjar territory, we trek further along the ridge before
descending to a sheltered summer settlement of rough stone huts in the Nauri
valley. Camp.
Days 6/7: TREK ALONG SHEPHERD PATHS.
Approximately 6/7 hour days. Now heading into the realms of the Gaddi shepherd
we start to traverse some of the more difficult nomad trails through wild forest
and jungle. Two tough days of steep ascent and descent on rocky and narrow
trails, through an area that is home to leopard and black bear. Camp.
Day 8: TREK TO RHELLA.
A great day of vigorous
trekking as we follow the path to Kareri Dal, (3200m) a beautiful grazing meadow
set below the stark peaks of the Dhaula Dhar range of mountains. Crossing Jari
Jot we make a rough descent, sometimes on snow, to our campsite at Rhella below
the peaks. Camp.
Day 9: REST DAY.
A well-earned rest day to relax around the
campsite, dip in the invariably icy river or explore the surrounding ridges and
valleys. Camp.
Day 10: CAMP IN FOREST GLADE.
In the morning a good climb brings us to Deepe, an impressive minor pass with
views to the west and east. Following a narrow trail through the forest we then
arrive at our campsite with views to the plains of North India. Camp.
Day 11:
CAMP NEAR LAKA RIVER. A relatively easy day as we use the
larger trails that connect the Gaddi villages in this area. The half-day walk
brings us back to civilisation and small village settlements. Camp.
Day 12:
TREK TO TRIUND. Approximately 5 hour walk. We climb steadily all
day to the spectacular ridge of Triund (3150m) set high above the Kangra
valley. An enjoyable day of walking, the trails being good and the chi (tea)
shops well stocked! Camp.
Day 13:
OPTIONAL TREK TO THE INDRAHAR PASS. Approximately 9 hour walk A
pre-dawn start for those attempting the Indrahar Pass (4380m). A long day, the
steep climb up the pass follows the well worn path of the Gaddi, who cross this
pass every year to reach the summer grazing in Lahoul. For those remaining in
camp, a day to relax and explore the ridge. Camp Triund.
Day 14: TREK TO DHARAMKOT.
Approximately 4 hour walk. A leisurely day as we retrace our steps down to
Dharamkot, the forested home to the Butterworth family. Bucket showers, tea and
biscuits, then a well-earned beer on the verandah. Camp.
Day 15:
SIGHTSEEING IN MCLEODGANJ. Approximately 1 hour walk. Back to the
real world, as we visit Mcleod Ganj for shopping, lunch and sightseeing. Mcleod
Ganj is home to the exiled Dalai Lama and many of his Tibetan followers.
Overnight the Hotel Tibet.
Day 16: TRAIN TO DELHI.
Approximately 3 hours drive time.
After an early lunch we drive to Pathankot to board the 18:15hrs evening sleeper
train to Delhi.
Day 17: ARRIVE DELHI AND TRANSFER BY
TAXI TO YOUR HOTEL.
Arriving early morning, (at 5am) there is time for some last minute souvenir
hunting and exploring in Delhi. Late evening transfer to the airport to board
your return flight home.
Day 18: FLY TO LONDON.
Early morning flight to London.
ACCOMMODATION:
DELHI:
We use the Siddarth Hotel, a comfortable 4-star hotel. Facilities include
swimming pool, bar, coffee shop, restaurants room service and it is fully
air-conditioned. This hotel is a 20 minute drive away from Connought Place.
MCLEODGANJ:
Hotel Tibet.
Basic clean comfortable accommodation and friendly service in one of the best
local hotels.
WEATHER:
The
best weather in this part of Himachal Pradesh is from late Autumn to Spring with
warm sunny days and pleasant nights. It can be quite hot during the day (up to
25°C) at lower altitudes and at higher altitudes (over 10,000ft) the temprature
can drop to -1°C at night. In late March/April there is the added attraction to
many of rhododendron in bloom.
TRAIN TRAVEL.
Train travel is by air-conditioned carriage.
Bedding is normally provided free of charge on the train (sheets, pillows and
blankets)
IMPORTANT
NOTE:
Whilst every effort is made to keep to the above itinerary,
clients will hopefully appreciate that this is adventure travel in a remote
mountain region. Given the nature of these treks there will quite likely be
changes to the itinerary in terms of anything from on the spot choice of camp
site to the day that a rest day is taken. Weather conditions, road
conditions, vehicle breakdowns off the beaten track, local availability of
porters, can contribute to the need for changes. Your trek leader will do
everything in his/her power to see that you are inconvenienced as little as
possible in such events. Timings given are
approximate.
Meal Plan:
B&B in Delhi and elswhere. Full board on Trek
NOT INCLUDED:
Air travel*. Alcohol, bottled water or soft drinks. Entry fees to monuments
of historical importance. The Taj Mahal is closed to the public on Fridays.
TRANSPORT:
Transport is by private car/coach with an
English speaking driver.
SPENDING MONEY:
You
should allow about £4 a day for incidentals and tips, perhaps a little more if
you enjoy a few beers as these are comparatively expensive in India.
INSURANCE:
It is a condition of joining any of our tours that you hold adequate insurance
cover. This must include medical and personal accident insurance.
TRAIN TRAVEL.
Train travel is by air-conditioned carriage.
Bedding is normally provided free of charge on the train (sheets, pillows and
blankets)
TRAVEL ADVICE:
Essential India is constantly in touch with the UK foreign Office and their
advice is followed instantly and to the letter. Our base for many of our
workshops is in the State of Himachal Pradesh in Northern India. With friends
and family still living there we are kept well informed of any local political
developments. Himachal Pradesh has continued to remain unaffected by events in
Kashmir. Essential India will travel whenever possible, provided it’s safe,
enjoyable and in our clients best interests.
RECOMMENDED READING:
The Lonely Planet India Travel Guide and Rough
Guides Travel To India.
Timings given are approximate
IMPORTANT
NOTE:
Whilst every
effort is made to keep to the above itinerary, clients will hopefully appreciate
that this is adventure travel. Weather conditions, road conditions and
vehicle breakdowns can contribute to the need for changes. Your driver/guide
will do everything in his power to see that you are inconvenienced as little as
possible in such events.
EQUIPMENT PROVIDED.
We provide ‘A’ frame or dome tents which have room for two people plus all of
your equipment. There is also a dining tent, a toilet tent exclusively for our
group use, and a kitchen and staff tent. There are camp chairs or stools, a
kerosene/gas lamp or candles for reading in the dining tent at night, stainless
steel crockery and tableware and foam sleeping mats. We strongly recommend
you bring your own karrimat or therma-a-rest as well. The staff
complement of cooks and assistants are always in attendance. They put up and
take down the tents, make the tea, cook the food, wash the dishes, load the
porters and carry a load of their own. They work extremely hard and are always
willing to help. If you want to join in putting up tents and taking them down,
you are free to do so, but it is not expected.
A TYPICAL DAY ON TREK
Soon after dawn you are served tea or coffee
while still in your sleeping bag. A few minutes later a washing bowl of hot
water is placed outside your tent. You can wash inside or outside the tent.
Once dressed you can pack your kit-bag and day-pack in preparation for the day’s
hike, and place these outside the tent. The camp staff will take down the
tents. While this is happening, breakfast is served. In the Himalaya breakfast
usually consists of cereals and/or porridge with milk, eggs, usually served with
chapatis, (unleavened bread that is cooked on a hot iron plate) or pancakes with
honey or jam. There is always plenty of tea and coffee.
The camp will be being struck while you are eating, and you will
need to be packed and out of your tents before breakfast.
You can take a leisurely breakfast breakfast
will the staff prepare loads for the porters or pack animals. If you have not
filled up your water bottle the night before ask the cook to fill your bottle
with boiled water. You may also collect a packed lunch, although usually you
may have a cooked meal at the lunch stop. Departure from camp could be from any
time between dawn and 9.00am, depending on the days itinerary, but generally you
will start walking at around 8.00am.
Depending on the length of the day’s walk, you
will walk for three or four hours before stopping for lunch. The lunch stop
will last for about an hour.
You usually arrive at the next camp site by
4:00pm. Camp may already set up by the time you get there, and tea/juice and
biscuits will be ready to welcome you. Supper will be ready soon after dark,
and will be served in the dining tent or in some instances, around the camp
fire. Camp fires will only be made if dead wood is available. The standard of
cooking on trek is usually surprisingly good, with the style of cooking being a
compromise between local and western food. Menus vary, but typically we start
with soup. The main course is often a rice based meal with meat stew or mild
curry, plus separate vegetable and salad dishes. A sweet dish is provided after
the meal. Our meal is finished with tea, coffee or hot chocolate. Sometimes a
bottle of local spirit is provided by the camp staff, but we advise clients to
buy plastic half bottles from duty free. However, you should only drink alcohol
when you feel acclimatised. After dinner, the usual practise is for your water
bottle to be filled with hot water and used as a hot water bottle for your
sleeping bag and for drinking water the next day.
We would like you to enjoy the serenity of the
unhurried atmosphere that exists in these wilderness regions. Our day to day
camp routine on your trekking adventure is geared to allow you to make the most
of your holiday.
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